I want to replace my Hamer Artist tailpiece so I can wrap?

[BoogieMKIIA]

I remember an old Guitar Player article where Joe Walsh said he put the stop bar all the way down on his Les Pauls for better sustain. Must have been in the early ‘70s. Of course, that is what I did to my Les Pauls Deluxe. I don’t recall much difference, kind of what you believe is your reality. Those were the days of heavy stop tails, brass nuts.

After joining this forum I have experimented with the Paul and Studio Custom. It makes sense to clear the back of the TOM but I never had issues with string breakage. On the now top wrapped Studio Custom, there is some difference, I think the open G string may have some resonance. When I get back to the house, I will take some pics.

Question for members who used to work at Hamer - was there a specific allowed variation on neck angle? Or how high the stop bar was allowed to be raised or some other criteria/ check? I think the stop bar is located on the flat, but if not the break angle would be affected.

 

[BoogieMKIIA]

Here is the side view of my Studio Custom with top wrap and stop tail all the way down. I think it will work.

[velorush]

Just installed the Callaham studs. Definitely locks the tailpiece down and there's no lean at all. 

Seems to be maybe just the slightest of difference in sustain / tone, but it was only $63 shipped, so certainly no harm done.

Oddly (for Callaham) one of the studs required considerable thread chasing to get it to fully thread. I tried both studs on both inserts and the problematic one was problematic on either. A good bit of cleanup and a little oil seems to have gotten is worked out, but that's extremely surprising coming from a machine shop.

Thanks again for the recommendation!

[Cboss]

2 hours ago, velorush said:

Just installed the Callaham studs. Definitely locks the tailpiece down and there's no lean at all. 

Seems to be maybe just the slightest of difference in sustain / tone, but it was only $63 shipped, so certainly no harm done.

Oddly (for Callaham) one of the studs required considerable thread chasing to get it to fully thread. I tried both studs on both inserts and the problematic one was problematic on either. A good bit of cleanup and a little oil seems to have gotten is worked out, but that's extremely surprising coming from a machine shop.

Thanks again for the recommendation!

Did you install the callaham inserts? 

My experience is I can usually pull the stock ones out of the body pretty easily, the callaham and the gotoh inserts require an 11 mm bit, so a slight widening of the hole, then you tamp it in there with a plastic hammer.  

[velorush]

2 hours ago, Cboss said:

Did you install the callaham inserts? 

 

My experience is I can usually pull the stock ones out of the body pretty easily, the callaham and the gotoh inserts require an 11 mm bit, so a slight widening of the hole, then you tamp it in there with a plastic hammer.  

Quote

Studs are made to fit guitars with 5/16"-24 threaded inserts. If you have these inserts, do not remove them.

The inserts we provide are only for new construction.

I didn't see the need. 

[Jim85IROC]

On 1/10/2025 at 7:30 AM, Dave Scepter said:

Or try one of these 

I really want to try one of these.

[Dave Scepter]

17 minutes ago, Jim85IROC said:

I really want to try one of these.

Doo eet... it's only money 💰😃👍

[hamerhead]

OK, practically it makes sense and is a great choice.

...but it doesn't have the cool factor of top-wrapping.

[kizanski]

32 minutes ago, hamerhead said:

...but it doesn't have the cool factor of scratching up your tailpiece.

Edited, slightly.

[hamerhead]

The free relic'ing is a bonus. Adds mojo and butter and blahblahblahblah....

[velorush]

This was a note on the Callaham instructions: 

Quote

Studs come with 3 graduated bushings to set the tailpiece to accommodate different back angle requirements you may encounter. The tallest set of bushings is to simulate "top wrapping" of the tailpiece for the least amount of back angle.

Cool idea, the benefits of top wrapping (if that's your thing) without scratching up the tailpiece (if that's not your thing), all with the benefit of having the tailpiece securely bolted down to the top. 

ETA: right now I just used the short bushings and left it top wrapped, but this will be too much fun to just leave be.

Edited January 27 by velorush

[BoogieMKIIA]

Just ordered a Lightning stop bar. Will report back once received and installed. 

[BoogieMKIIA]

Just received the Lightning stop bar and will be installing today. It is very light, I will weigh and get a few dimensions. Aluminum is part of the reason, the thickness may be less than a regular stop bar.

Quick check with the old strings, stretched tight by hand, there is clearance at the back of the bridge with the stop bar all the way to the body.

[Dave Scepter]

45 minutes ago, BoogieMKIIA said:

Quick check with the old strings, stretched tight by hand, there is clearance at the back of the bridge with the stop bar all the way to the body.

Awesome 👌 

[BoogieMKIIA]

Some measurements. At the dentist with my daughter, will put on strings and test drive this afternoon. I have not noticed major changes with different stop tails in the past. At the least, it will relieve anxiety around being secure to the body and not hitting the back of the bridge. Your thoughts are your reality.

________________________

Weight 34 grams
Thickness between G and D 0.360" (0.445)

Distance bottom to string exit (towards bridge)varies from 0.265" to 0.285"

Distance bottom to string entrance, can't measure as there is a larger hole for ball ends and the thru holes are to the top of the larger hole.

Length about 4.2"

Length between inside post slots 2.90'

Length between outer post slots 3.55"

Height at post slots flat 0.282

Slot depth about 0.515"

Slot width about 0.325"

Width 0.712"

[BoogieMKIIA]

Finished up. Can't really tell any difference in feel so far. Maybe more from low E, I also put on new strings.

I tried to use feeler gauges to measure the string to back of bridge gap but was hard to fit the large auto feelers. High E was about 4 mils. Much better string break angle for me. 

E - 0.004
B - 0.005
G > 0.015
D > 0.015
A - 0.010
E - 0.010

[Jakeboy]

I just bought two Allen button head M8-125 screws like @hamerhead recommended on my Korina Artist. It added a bit of brightness and sustain. I love that guitar top wrapped and now it is even better. The screws are expensive though cause I got them chromed to match my Artist stoptail.