#0045 and #0020

[django49]

^^^

When a Timex digital watch comes with a 64 page manual, a cell phone with a couple hundred pages (and they do not even bother giving you a printed version) and our just purchased car has a 590 page owner's manual (plus 274 pages more for the "electronics" alone), I know for sure that I will never bother to master anywhere near all the "finer points".

[sixesandsevens]

9 hours ago, Northfield said:

 

Tell me you have a shot like that for all of them.

[velorush]

19 minutes ago, sixesandsevens said:

Tell me you have a shot like that for all of them.

Wouldn't it be great (if they exist) to put each one above the description for the definitive Shishkov Ultimate Registry?

[aknapp]

1 minute ago, velorush said:

Wouldn't it be great (if they exist) to put each one above the description for the definitive Shishkov Ultimate Registry?

I saw 6s&7s post without scrolling far enough to see yours, and I thought the exact same thing. 

[BTMN]

Always liked what I read here; http://www.billlawrence.com/Pages/Pickupology/Introduction.htm

Part 3 is about setting the pickup height. You must lay the guitar flat to do this. In a safe manner too.

3. The distance between pickup and string is a very important factor for output and sound.

As a general rule for the bridge pickup - put a nickel on top of the pickup under the high E string and play the highest note on that string. Adjust the height on that side of the pickup till the string touches the nickel. Repeat the same with the low E string, but use two nickels on top of each other. If this gives you too much output, you can reduce the height slightly. Don't forget that twice the distance will reduce the output by about 60%, and the sound will lose some lows. NOW, you can adjust the neck pickup to match the output of the bridge pickup. For the sound test, use stage volume.

[The Shark]

I've plugged every guitar into my 1959 Tweed Deluxe for years.  A moderate volume with some crunch is where I set it.  Ninety percent of my guitars are two humbuckers.

I use a Jazz III and my favorite coiled cable.  I take a screwdriver and adjust each pickup separately.  There's always a sweet spot.  I don't notice it so much on the bottom end as I do in the midrange.  Most amps allow correction for bass response.  Midrange is what really matters to me.  I think it's a function of many variables I can't always put my finger on.  The bridge pickup seems to always dial in a little easier.  I think it's because the human ear, especially at my age, hears the interaction of the top-end and midrange better. 

Finally, I have to compare the neck and bridge together in the middle position.  Manipulating the tone control(s) and volume(s) produces so many great tones with both pickups on.  Often, I have to back the tone knob off on the bridge pickup to make everything work as I prefer.  The best humbucker guitars and pickups shine with the switch in the middle.  

Strats and Telecaster guitars are a totally different animal.  Not sure I have them figured out. And I've never been able to use a guitar that co-mingles singles and humbuckers. 

 

[serial]

21 hours ago, sixesandsevens said:

Tell me you have a shot like that for all of them.

THAT would be awesome!!

[The Shark]

On ‎6‎/‎4‎/‎2016 at 6:02 PM, django49 said:

^^^

When a Timex digital watch comes with a 64 page manual, a cell phone with a couple hundred pages (and they do not even bother giving you a printed version) and our just purchased car has a 590 page owner's manual (plus 274 pages more for the "electronics" alone), I know for sure that I will never bother to master anywhere near all the "finer points".

My Lexus manual is nearly 600 pages long.  It did assist me in turning off the "Change Oil Soon" indicator and the "Low Tire Pressure" warnings.  Oh, and I learned how to program my seat to return to my setting after the wife drives it.  Other than that, the manual is totally useless to me so far.   

 

[soli'd]

How do the neck carves on 0020 & 0045 compare?

[RobB]

On 6/4/2016 at 7:29 AM, The Shark said:

It's an ABR-1 style bridge with Nashville inserts.  The best of both worlds!

Creamtone makes very nice hardware. DaveL turned me on to their Nashville/ABR-1 conversion kit. For #0011, I initially sent out a Callaham ABR-1 bridge, but my request was for naught (something to the effect of the bridge posts could crack the maple top). Makes sense, as the original Standards just had a thin veneer, and the bridge posts were anchored in the mahogany body. 

If I had known about the Creamtone kit going into my order, I would have certainly sent those in for my build. The stock, TonePros hardware is fine, but I like the smaller footprint of an ABR-1, so I already have a nickel set on order for my Ultimate. An easy, reversible upgrade.

[The Shark]

3 hours ago, RobB said:

Creamtone makes very nice hardware. DaveL turned me on to their Nashville/ABR-1 conversion kit. For #0011, I initially sent out a Callaham ABR-1 bridge, but my request was for naught (something to the effect of the bridge posts could crack the maple top). Makes sense, as the original Standards just had a thin veneer, and the bridge posts were anchored in the mahogany body. 

If I had known about the Creamtone kit going into my order, I would have certainly sent those in for my build. The stock, TonePros hardware is fine, but I like the smaller footprint of an ABR-1, so I already have a nickel set on order for my Ultimate. An easy, reversible upgrade.

Mike steered me away from the traditional ABR-1 to the hybrid for the same reason.  Now, we have to settle on what stop tailpiece we use on my DC (Cobra)!

[veatch]

Wraptail?

[The Shark]

57 minutes ago, veatch said:

Wraptail?

I'm leaning towards this one...

http://www.schroederguitars.com/buy/guitar-parts/schroeder-original-stoptail

[cmatthes]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!

 

(PLEASE don't)

[veatch]

This is the best one I've tried:

http://mojoaxe.com/

Looks traditional, but compensated. Lightweight, too.

[The Shark]

8 hours ago, cmatthes said:

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!

 

(PLEASE don't)

WHYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!

Tell me.

[veatch]

I can't speak for Chris, but for me, I'd rather not see Mike use another guitar company's hardware, especially something as distinctive as the Schroeder bridge.  When someone looks at the guitar, I'd want them to see Shishkov, not Schroeder. 

And seriously, the MojoAxe is expensive, but solid. I have it on two guitars, soon to be three...  Intonation is great, and it feels like the old school wrap. Of course, opinions vary, so it depends on what you want. Hey - they even have aged hardware!

 

[cmatthes]

Veatch pretty much gets my line of thinking.

 

Also, I think it is one of the most hideous units made.  Put that on a Grateful Dead/Jerry Garcia tribute guitar, but never on a Shishkov!

 

[The Shark]

The peer pressure is too much.  I'm going with this...Pigtail.

[veatch]

Great choice if you want individual adjustments. I have one on an old Dean Elite, and have never had an issue. The adjustments have always been and stayed tight. I'd go with the TonePros locking studs to keep it from wiggling on  the posts. 

Can't wait to see the final results!

[bubs_42]

1 hour ago, The Shark said:

The peer pressure is too much.  I'm going with this...Pigtail.

Exactly why, I am tight lipped. It will be what it will be in the end. 

[ArnieZ]

I get the not using anyone else's hardware point. I actually think that tail piece is good looking and maybe a great counter point to an L5 kind of fingerboard. Like this

ArnieZ

[teleman]

SWEET!!